Showing posts with label Trek 2009. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Trek 2009. Show all posts

Jul 20, 2009

Mt. Rainier

The day finally came to put all the preparation to the test last week as we arrived at Mt. Rainier. Climbing Rainier was the last big event planned while on Home Leave in the U.S. between assignments. On wednesday 15 July we left Mike's house around 0500 and drove the 2.5 hours up to the Paradise visitors center.

Greg, Jeff, Zachariah, Ben, and Mike (I don't know why but Paul is missing) getting ready to start walking

After registering and collecting our blue bags we started climbing at about 0900. We couldn't have asked for better weather. We originally planned 4 days in case the weather was bad and it took longer to climb, but we had amazingly clear weather for the whole climb.
Enjoying the first Clif bar

When we got to the lodge and were getting ready to climb I found that my sunglasses had disappeared and so I had to buy the one pair of non-geriatric looking glasses in the gift shop. When I got back from the climb it turned out Bran had been looting my pack and had taken the glasses right before I left.

Pebble Creek, just before the ice starts (Jeff, Greg, Paul, and Mike)

Bathroom with a view of Mt. Adams (Ben)

Still a long way before Camp Muir (Paul, Jeff, and Zachariah)

500 ft below Camp Muir with Cathedral Rocks in view

Arriving at Camp Muir, finally

Digging out a pad for our huge 6-man base camp tent

Making water for the summit climb (Zachariah)

We burned through 3-4 liters per person of water on the first day, which is normal. And on the summit bid you have to have about 1 gallon of water per person, so after setting up the tent we started melting/filtering the water for the next days climb. It took about 2.5 hours to melt all the water and cook all the food.

Sunset from Camp Muir

Climbing up to Cathedral Gap from Camp Muir (Mike, Greg, Jeff, Paul, and Ben)

Most teams woke up around 0100 and kicked off for the summit bid in the dark. We were a bit lazy however and tried to get up at 0300, rolled out of bed around 0400 and left for the summit climb at about 0500. The nice thing about it was that we didn't have to climb by flashlight.

Stepping onto the Ingram Glacier from Cathedral Gap

The first look at the Disappointment Cleaver from Ingram Glacier (Zachariah)

View of Mt. Adams through Cadaver Gap on the Ingram Glacier (Ben)

Making our final approach to the Disappointment Cleaver

Weird spikey snow on the Cleaver

Looking down on the Ingram Glacier from the Cleaver

Clambering up the lower skree patch on the Cleaver

Settling in for a long break

After a long push to get to a safe place to rest we stopped on a small skree patch on top of the Cleaver and took about a 40 minute break. At this point we started to see the first successfull summit teams coming down from the early morning groups. We had come across a few unsuccessful groups that had had to return without making it to the top.

Ben jumping over a skinny and very deep crevasse

Greg jumping over the same crevasse

Checking out the last really big crevasse before the steep final climb (Paul, Greg, Jeff, Mike, and Ben)

Looking down on Little Tahoma from Emmons Glacier (Greg, Mike, Ben)

The summit (Greg, Jeff, Ben in back, Paul in front, Mike, and Zachariah)

We summited at about 1530 on 16 July with two strained knees and one migraine as our only group injuries. We sat down in the crater to rest and Ben started going sort of crazy. He had a steadily worsening migraine as we climbed and at the top it became so unbearable that he could hardly walk. When he started asking us to medevac him we decided it was time to get down some elevation and see if it would ease the pain, so we only spent a mere few minutes at the top. It was really an amazing climb, extremely difficult, and beautiful. After summiting we turned around and made it back to Muir around 2100, a grueling 16 hour day.

A couple of months before the climb I had this dream that we all got to the top and there was a Japanese tourist bus there and someone had built a road up the other side. We were really angry in my dream after half killing ourselves to get up there. Well, as we approached the summit we passed the last team to come off the top before we got up there, and it just happened to be a 4 man Japanese team that flew to the States just to summit Rainier! How random is that?

Apr 30, 2009

Mt. Rainier Plan

"The elusive mountain" (courtesy of NPS.gov)



Now that we are closer to our climb of Mt. Rainier here are the firm details so far...

Climbing dates are 15-18 July-


15 July:
Kick off early morning (like 7ish?) and hike/climb to Muir
plan on 8-10 hours of heavy climbing
camp at Muir
(let me know what you think of this schedule, we could kick off earlier if anyone wants too)


16 July:
Kick off about 2-3am, summit Rainier with the sunrise
climb back down to Muir
mess around at Muir for remainder of day, drop Jeff in a crevasse and try to rescue him
camp at Muir

17 July:
Wake up with sunrise
Climb back down to cars

18 July:
Contingency day in case we get stuck in blizzard/bad weather and have to wait it out before summiting

Here is the gear list, it is by no means exhaustive but includes the essentials-

Personal:
clothes - call me for more specifics if you need, there are a lot of choices and a lot of variables
backpack
sleeping bag (I guess you can share with someone if you really want)
bag liner (for extra warmth, not exactly neccesary)
insulating sleeping pad (a must have)
blue bags (for poo, we can get these at Paradise before kicking off)
crampons (can rent from REI)
ice axe (standard long shank axe, our route will not require an ice tool; can rent from REI)
helmet (can probably rent from REI or borrow, I may have two, Ben may have two)
climbing Harness (Ben may have extra's, or Sam, Daniel?)
Prusik slings (I have 6 sets, enough for all of us so no one need buy or make them)
at least one locking carabiner, a couple more would be handy if you can swing it
good headlamp with Lithium batteries
strong sun screen and chapstick with sunscreen
first aid kit (with mole skin for blisters. I have one big enough for all of us)
100% UV blocking sunglasses and or ski goggles
avalanche transeiver (can rent at REI)
2-3 1 quart water bottles
food for 4 days
gaiters
face protection, i.e. mask, balacalava, or scarf

Group gear:
1 2-person and 1 3-person expedition tent (rent from REI)
2-4 rescue pulleys ( I have 2, does anyone else want to buy some? if not can probably survive with just 2)
1-2 shovels (I have 1, probably don't need 2)
Compass / Altimeter (I have both, maybe need one more set as backup, in case I fall in a crevasse...)
Topo map (I have two copies)
2 stoves (I have one and Mike has one)
probably 4 bottles of fuel? (have to melt a lot of water before climbing day 2, better to have too much then not enough)
2 pots for boiling water/melting snow (I have one, Mike has one)
60 meter 8.5 millimeter rope for glacier tie in (I have)
2-4 mechanical ascenders (I have)
3 Ice Anchors (I have)
cell phone (I will be without since I will be moving, have to turn mine in before leaving Uruguay, Mike and Ben and Jeff have)
GPS (I have and Mike has, should be sufficient)